Make sure the oil pan is underneath it since it will release oil. Fetch the replacement oil filter and fill it partially with oil. Let the filter absorb the oil.
Also, use your finger to apply some of the motor oil to the gasket to aid with sealing. Install the replacement filter and only tighten it just past hand-tight.
It should be snug but not much more than that. Also, be careful with the exhaust pipes, since they should still be hot. Changing the oil yourself is only worth it if you can do so quickly and cleanly. This valve helps you do that. Plus, the option to attach a hose means you could even drain the oil directly to a container for recycling without the need for an oil pan. I also use the same feature to take samples of oil directly to the test container for oil analysis.
Simply apply some blue threadlocker medium strength to the valve and screw it in. Make sure the lever can be moved freely however you install it. On this bike, you need to install the right angle hose end to make the oil drain downwards. If you have a torque wrench , torque the original bolt down to 30 N m 3. Never pour it all in straight away though. The fill port is way too awkwardly positioned to do it without one.
You should never check the oil while the bike is on its side-stand. Ideally, it should be on the ground and upright. Make sure the oil level is between the two marks, biased towards the top mark.
After making sure the level is correct, reinstall the oil filler cap. And to avoid any motorcycle oil change horror stories, always double-check. It makes no sense to save the time taking your bike to the mechanic for a motorcycle oil change if you have to take your used oil to be recycled each time.
You can put just about a years supply of used oil including brake oil, hydraulic oil, etc in there and simply do the trip once. Most major auto-parts stores like AutoZone have a huge deposit in the back where you can empty the bottle there. Just make sure to mark the container as used oil.
I used these cute stickers to make that clear. Now that the motorcycle oil change is done, double-check the bike for leaks or uninstalled bolts and then take her for a ride! Always check the oil level afterwards as well. Hopefully this was helpful to anyone wanting to change the oil on this, or any, bike.
Watched it. Did it like I had been doing for years. This DIY is great. I even ordered all the replacement parts to make future oil changes easier. Those are the things that I wanted to stress. Thank You. This article is absolutely incredible. Will be doing my first ever motorcycle oil change on my Kawasaki and thanks to this article I am no longer lost in the sauce.
Hey, thanks for the DIY! Thinking on installing one of these next time I change my oil. To see the latest version, click here. Working on any vehicle can be risky to both yourself and the vehicle. No warranties or guaranties, explicit or implicit, are made or implied regarding the compatibility, suitability or effect on functionality, safety or any current warranties. All modifications should be made within the reader's capability and under their own exclusive responsibility.
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EZ Oil Drain Ball Valve - If you work quickly, changing the oil yourself will take both less time and less money compared to taking it to the shop. This valve helps you get the job done quicker, with less clean up afterwards. Instead of having to find a wrench to remove the oil drain bolt, swap the crush washer, or torque it down properly, you can simply flip the lever on this valve to quickly drain the oil.
If you accidentally fill the oil too much, you can simply open the valve a few seconds to fix it. And if you are given to sample your oil for oil analysis, you can hook up a hose like this one directly to it. I install these on all my vehicles and would recommend you do it, too. The model EZ is the correct version for most Kawasaki bikes , but to see the complete compatibility list click here. The benefit of this is only having one fluid to change, but the downside is dirtier oil as well as an oil with much more specific qualities especially related to friction modifiers.
Always use oil specifically made for motorcycles. As in, don't use car oil. The number on the oil container, 10w, refers to the viscosity of the oil how "thick" it is. Take the bike for a short ride minutes to make sure the oil is hot and agitated , like in the thermal image taken with a FLIR camera above. That way, all the debris are suspended in the oil.
It also makes the oil more fluid so it flows out of the drain quicker in cold environments. The first step is to put the bike up on a rear stand , with an oil drip tray underneath if possible. If you don't want to loosen the fairing to drain the oil and who does? Use a 17mm socket or wrench to remove the Oil Drain Bolt. You want to remove the bottom drain bolt before removing the fill bolt so the oil flows slower at the beginning and doesn't make a mess.
Try to avoid dropping the Drain Bolt in the hot oil. Also make sure you don't lose the crush washer. Most of the time it stays stuck to the oil pan. If you need to replace the crush washer, this is the replacement. If you intend to take an oil sample for analysis, take it after a few seconds of flow so the dirtiest oil can drain out first.
That way you'll get the most homogeneous sample. Though originally marketed for aeronautic and heavy industry use, I personally like sending my oil for analysis to make sure all is well inside the engine. While in the States 3 months between oil changes is typical, in Europe the norm is 1 to 2 years - using the same oil. I personally fall within the long oil change philosophy.
I'll only change my oil sooner if it's required for maintaining the warranty. Generally I'll go about 1 year between oil changes, if I can. Attached you'll find a sample analysis. It tells you how dirty the oil is, and whether or not it's actually deteriorated.
I've gone up to 3 years without an oil change on a family vehicle and the oil is still good, per the analysis. You'd be surprised at how good modern oils are. By doing an oil analysis I can be confident I am in no way damaging the engine. Is suitable for use in all brake fluid systems in cars, and light commercial vehicles requiring either a DOT 3, DOT 4 or Super DOT 4 product Not suitable for use where a mineral oil based fluid is specified.
Suitable for use in all brake fluid systems in cars, motorcycles and light commercial vehicles requiring either a DOT 3 or DOT 4 product Not suitable for use where a mineral oil based fluid is specified. A fully formulated, ethylene glycol based coolant designed to meet the requirements of the majority of cars and light commercial vehicles with petrol and diesel engines.
Transmission Combined with crankcase. Front Forks.
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